Port au Prince, Haiti, l979

By Arlene Mandell

Butterscotch-colored butterflies flit through Habitation Leclerc, founded by Napolean's sister Pauline in 1801. The dictator's name is Baby Doc Duvalier.

An olive-green lizard lives behind the rococo mirror in your villa. Sounds carry far — voodoo drums beating, frogs croaking. The man in the adjoining villa hitting his wife, her muffled screams.

Each cluster of four villas has its own swimming pool. A Planter's Punch at 4 p.m. reduces hunger, makes lovemaking more languid.

Do not walk past the resort's boundaries — you'll see naked children with bloated bellies. The dictator's wife is said to be beautiful with exquisite jewels.

Many of the wood carvings for sale in the market contain termites. Exercise caution. On your last day give your small coins to the children.

You should have a delightful vacation.